In my last post, I showed a video of a lower being printed out of PLA so it wouldn’t warp. I decided to print a new one out of ABS in order to actually have it be strong enough to use once it was assembled.
This is by no means a “how to” or even an assembly guide. I just wanted to post a shitload of pictures.
At this point, it started warping so I put a little epoxy around the edges that were pulling up. It’s a stupid solution to an even stupider problem, but it totally works as long as you don’t get it on the top of the print.
With all the support material, it weighed 207 grams. 100% infill, 0.35mm layer height.
After removing all the support material: 93 grams.
Living in California means dealing with bullshit laws like the assault weapons ban. This little nub that keeps you from removing the magazine without a tool completely sidesteps all of the rules. The California DOJ hasn’t specifically said that this is legal, but they have also declined to describe it as illegal. Whatever the politics of it are, it’s retarded.
I knew it looked a bit tight, so I drilled it out a little bit where there had been a very SLIGHT warp in the print. It looked like it was doing just fine, if a little stiff. Suddenly, POP. The print diameter is 2mm smaller than the buffer tube diameter. I have no idea how that happened, as everything else was near perfect and required minimal trimming.
Since I had all the parts laying around and a printed lower just sitting there, I decided to assemble it anyways. I deemed it too weak to test fire before I assembled it, but I figure why the hell not.
Sadly, the sprint on the bolt catch isn’t moving freely right now so it probably needs to come out before actually test firing it. I had to heat up the holes to get the roll pin in, and it’s probably going to break if I take it apart.
THAT LITTLE PIECE OF SHIT SILVER THING CAN SUCK MY TESTES. Seriously. It’s on top of a spring, and you need to depress it all the way in to get the pivot pin in place, it only fired itself across the room once, and luckily I found it.
I guess it’s a benefit to have that bend in there somewhere, otherwise Magpul wouldn’t have made it that way, right? Gun people don’t do silly marketing things, right?
I didn’t get any pictures of the install crap, but it’s pretty simple. The trigger is pinned in on one pivot point, the hammer on another with a second pin. It’s actually a simple gun (in this part).
I still find the stupidest thing ever that the gun needs to be cocked in order to put the safety on. Also, the spring for the safety selector detent (the part that makes the satisfying CLICK when you go from safe to fire) actually goes in the grip. There are more than a few things here I’d personally consider design flaws.
I used the exact same model for both lowers, this one I printed vertically, the other lying on it’s side. Somehow that made it smaller.
Luckily it’s “safety orange” so it can’t possibly go wrong. It’s uncocked with the safety off, and I pulled the spring out of the buffer tube, just because I’m paranoid about springs under pressure on the plastic.
The idea now is to use a 9mm upper to test fire it, under the hopes that the 9mm will put less pressure on the buffer tower and someone is willing to let me borrow a 9mm upper to test fire this monstrosity. One of those two things is more important than the other. I say the chances of it suffering catastrophic failure on the first shot to be around 80%. I need to find out if there is something cheaply available like a ransom rest, but for rifles. Or a vice and some string. Either way, the important part is getting it on video. And not damaging the parts so I can reuse them later on a real lower. Safety third.